DIY installing your new tire and wheels
Installing new wheels isn't difficult – in most cases, it’s no harder than changing a flat tire. However, certain steps and safety precautions should be carefully observed.
Unless you have experience installing custom wheel & tire packages, we at CustomWheels4U strongly recommend that you permit one of our Associates or Consultants to walk you though the process, as it is exacting and critical for both safety and looks.
At they very least, we suggest that you have their contact information handy. And Consultation is always FREE.
Please note, the following is not a comprehensive list of directions and instructions and if you are unsure we recommend that you have your tire and wheel package installed by a professional.
As such, CustomWheels4U assumes no liability for errors.
Preparation (Before You Begin)
Before you start: If your package includes directional and/or asymmetrical tires, place each tire where it will be located on the vehicle. In other words, stand the right-front tire alongside the right-front wheel on the vehicle, the left-front tire alongside the left-front wheel, etc.
Installing new Rear Axle pairs of tires: In order to minimize the chance of hydroplaning, newer, deeper-treaded tires should always be installed on the rear axle, with older, partially worn tires on the front axle.
Directional Tires Only: If your tires are directional, refer to the “rotation arrow” that appears on the tires sidewall. This shows the direction that the tire should turn.
Asymmetric Tires Only: If your tires are asymmetric, the sidewall branding on all tires should be facing outward.
Both Directional and Asymmetric Tires: Use the preceding guidelines; in other words, look for the rotation arrows, and the sidewall branding to determine.
Installing Your Custom Wheel & Tire Package
Before you begin: Locate the owners’ manual and bookmark the section on procedures for removing and installing tires.
Step 1. Remove your old wheels and tires. Before raising the vehicle, break the lug nuts or bolts loose. We recommend using hand tools for this, to avoid damaging the lugs or studs. If you must use a power wrench, we caution extreme care, avoiding torque-nut hardware. Additionally, an impact wrench may damage the lugs or the studs. We recommend carefully removing the lugs or studs using a four-way wrench or a socket on a breaker bar.
Step 2. Make certain the vehicle is on a flat, level, and stable surface, then raise it slightly using a jack and use jack stands to support all four wheels. Remove all four wheels.
Step 3. If you are only installing wheels, test fit the wheels before mounting the tires on them.
As you hand loosen and tighten each wheel’s lug studs and wheel bolts, if you feel any resistance or roughness after removing the wheels, correct the situation before proceeding.
· Wheels must fit flat against the vehicle’s hubs.
· Carefully remove any dust or dirt from the mounting surface of the brake’s rotors and drums.
· If temporary retaining devices (such as stud clips,) are being used, remove them. Also remove any indicator or locator pins, which can be found on some model Nissan, Volvo, and Infinity models.
NOTE: Hyundai vehicles may have large bolts that hold the rotors to their hubs that should not be removed. Instead, refer to the owners’ manual or contact one of our Consultants or Associates for further instruction. It’s FREE.
Step 4. Verify the fit of the wheel into the hub. A “centering ring” may be required to establish the proper fit; if the bolt circle of the wheel does not match that of your vehicle and makes full contact to the mounting surface of the hub, please contact an Associate immediately.
Step 5. To make certain that your lug or bolt thread sizes match, first install the lug nuts or bolts by themselves, without the wheels. If you feel any resistance, examine the lug stud and nut or hub and bolt. Are they clean and unobstructed?
If not, or if they do not appear to match the thread pitch of your hubs, you might be trying to use the wrong one(s.) So try another one.
If they still don’t thread any better, give us a call and we’ll verify that you have the correct components.
Once you’ve hand-tightened the lugs, snug them down, using a four-wrench or a socket on a breaker bar.
Because the thickness of an alloy wheel is sometimes different from OEM wheels, you should also verify that the lug nuts or bolts will engage the threads properly. The chart below indicates the number of turns and/or the depth of engagement typical for your stud or bolt size.
|BOLT OR STUD SIZE||NO. OF TURNS|
Step 6: Verify disc brake caliper clearance by temporarily snugging down the lug nuts or bolts. There should be at least 3-4mm of clearance between the wheels and the brake caliper.
Step 7: With the vehicle’s transmission in neutral , hand-turn each wheel, making certain that the outer edge of the disc brake caliper doesn't touch the inside of the rim or that the side of the caliper doesn't come into contact with the backside of the wheel or the wheel balancing weights.
After you have done this, remove the wheel and apply a thin coating of anti-seize around the axle hubs. This will help prevent rust and make it easier to rotate rotate your tires at the appropriate time.
IMPORTANT: Do not apply anti-seize compound to the lug hardware or studs..
Step 8: The wheel lug torque should be set set to the recommended specification for your vehicle. These specifications can be found in your vehicle's owner's manual, shop repair manual, from your dealer, of from one of our Consultants or Associates.
Once you have this information, use an accurate torque wrench to finish tightening the lugs.
When each has reached its proper torque value using a crisscross sequence, you are done installing your tire and wheel package.
At this point, we recommend that you review each step in this process before taking your vehicle out on the road, because (for example) if you over-torque a wheel, you can strip a lug nut, stretch or break a wheel stud and cause the wheel, brake rotor and/or brake drum to distort. And you certainly don’t want that!
After driving 50 – 100 miles on your new wheels you should re-torque your lug hardware, because as the new wheels are breaking in they may compress slightly allowing their lugs to lose some of their torque.
As always, if you have any questions or concerns, feel free to contact one of our Associates or Consultants.